Part 2 of a 3-parter!

Our flight to Ireland was early, and none of us were great in the morning. Our biggest concern, however, was the looming transportation strike. We were assured that the underground would not strike until the afternoon rush hour, so we should be fine in the morning. The strike ended up not being an issue, but the morning ride to Heathrow Airport Terminal 2 was not seamless. Once the train arrived at the first terminal, the train stopped cold. The train before us was having a medical emergency, so it would be a minute. Au contraire. After about 5 minutes, we were all told to get off the train, and that the train we were on had to reverse out so the other train could go. Good luck to all!

The throngs were nervous, as we all had flights to catch. We assumed we would just walk to the next terminal, but were quickly informed that it would be an impossibly long trek. Above ground, we found ourselves at a bus terminal, and we quickly divided to conquer. I ran to ask for help at the ticket counter, while the kids ran to the buses. I bought us passes for the bus to the next terminal, and we were off. Sweating.

I was hard-pressed to live my mantra “Don’t worry, because it doesn’t help.” Instead, I started planning in my mind. I knew there had to be more flights to Dublin that day, so worse came to worst we would try to get on one of those. We made it to the correct terminal after about a 15-minute bus ride (definitely too far to walk!) and rushed inside. Unfortunately, all of the self-check stations (and there were no counters) had lines, and many of those broke as we watched and waited. Again, we divided up. Everyone on their own, so to speak, and meet you at the gate. We got in line for security, and I made it through easily. I looked around, and when I didn’t see the kids. I assumed that meant they were ahead of me so I rushed on.

Nope, not at the gate, and they were boarding.

I called and texted Carter and Frankie. No answer.

I promised the nice Irish man taking tickets that the kids were on their way, and he said no problem, there was time. After a few minutes, and a few sideways glances at my pacing self, he asked, “Have you called them?” I told him I had with no response. We looked at his watch and said I’d be okay. But I knew he was getting concerned.

A few minutes later, Frankie rushed over. She had been forced to take anything vaguely liquidy out and place it in a baggie (mind you these were the same things she had already flown with). Final call for boarding, and still no Carter in sight. He came rushing up, and we hustled aboard. That was far too close for comfort! We had planned to have breakfast at the airport, but that clearly didn’t happen. So we were going to buy food on the plane, which was listed as an option. Nope. Not on this very short flight to Dublin! So we tried to quell the hunger by dreaming of Guinness and Irish potatoes to come.

I had agonized over our Ireland itinerary. Some places just didn’t make sense time-wise, others were not good for the season. I settled on two nights each in Dublin, Galway, and Cork. As always with my travels, I could have stayed longer in each, and can’t wait to go back and see the places we had to skip!

First was Dublin, where we stayed at the Fleet Hotel Temple Bar.

Highlights: The location was perfect, the lobby was stunning, the room was clean and the bathrooms were modern. Loved the free waters! Didn’t love that our room was so dark, and they needed heavier doors to keep out the hallway noise, but oh well. If you have issues with steps or long hallways, be forewarned that this is in an old building, so there will be some up two, down one, long hallways, and a couple more stairs kind of things. Not a huge issue for us, but could be for some.

After dropping our bags, our first priority was food. We found The Duke, a lovely pub that fits the bill perfectly, I enjoyed a traditional Sunday roast with all the trimmings, and the kids filled up on soups, stews, bread, and chicken wings. The beer and whiskey weren’t bad either!

Next, we were off to Trinity College, to see the Book of Kells. I had never heard of the book before planning this trip, but it is a beautiful religious text from about 800 A.D., a national treasure, and the showpiece of the famed The library is undergoing renovation, so many of the books are off the shelves, but it is a stunning place nonetheless. They have installed an interactive exhibit called the Book of Kells Experience, which was so cool.

I would have liked to have spent more time exploring the college grounds, but it was chilly and late, and, well: the kids, lol. So we headed back to the hotel to get ready for a night out in Dublin.

We started at the hotel restaurant, Cafe 1920, enjoying beverages and a light dinner.

While our meal was good, the most memorable part of this stop was our interaction with the woman seated at the table next to us. I didn’t take much notice of her at first, just a woman enjoying a solo meal out, much like would do while traveling. But at one point when the three of us laughed about something, she snapped “Do you have to be so loud?” We were just shocked! I mean, how do you respond to that? Well, we just kind of shifted in our seats and I stewed. When we stood to leave, I just turned to her, and channeled my inner-passive aggressive Minnesota voice: “I am sorry our happiness was so offensive to you.” Before I could even finish my sentence, she declared in a British, not an Irish accent: “Indeed!” I rolled my eyes and walked away.

“Indeed!” became quite the buzzword for the rest of the trip.

Next, we went next door to The Palace Bar, which our cab driver recommended as his fave local haunt. I had one thing on my mind: my first true Irish Guinness. Hokey and touristy, I know, but I’ve had Irish bar owners in the US wistfully tell me how they had tried and tried but could never replicate that Irish Guinness taste. One thing I found different? The Irish Guinness seems lighter: more like a drink than a meal. I tried them in various locations, and I loved them all!

After this bar, we wandered around to look for trad music. The first place we stopped was more like a college town bar, with a guy singing covers, while American football games played on the television. Fine, but not the vibe we sought. So we found a pub that was happening, The Auld Dubliner. It was lively and the singer was better, but after a round of “Sweet Caroline” (I cannot escape that song!), we decided it was time to move on.

In my research, I found a speakeasy that we went to next. It ended up having, in the girl’s opinion, the best martini on the trip (the second one was even better!). The Vintage Cocktail Club was a sexy joint filled with cooler people than me enjoying a wide variety of cocktails.

The cocktail list was 20 pages long, divided chronologically starting with drinks from the 1400s. I highly recommend visiting this place!

The next morning, we headed to a tour at Kilmainham Gaol. Consider this pace to be the Irish version of Alcatraz: a spooky, damp, sad old prison with a lot of history. But the history at Kilmainham is more important, as it figures prominently in the Irish revolution for independence in the 1920s. Before I came on this trip, I watched the mini-series Rebellion, which I would highly recommend. It familiarized me with the history of the rebellion and made it even more exciting to visit the places where that history occurred. I often do things like that before I travel, be it watching a movie, or reading a book about the area I am visiting. I think it’s important to be aware of why places are important and to not just treat them as Insta-fodder.

On the tour, our guide told us many heartbreaking stories, including the one Rod Stewart sings about in his song Grace. So beautiful! The museum you visit after the tour is equally important, so save yourself some time to go through all the many exhibits. I was particularly moved by the letters home from the condemned men.

After our tour, we needed sustenance. The only place I could find nearby was directly across the street, and I worried it might be a tourist trap. But The Patriots Inn was delicious (so far Ireland was kicking London’s culinary butt). I love me some bangers and mash (hey now!), and this pork and leek sausage was perfect. The only better thing was my Bailey’s Coffee, with a cream on top so thick I could have set a euro on top and it would have never sunk through. Yes, please!

I wanted to wander to our next destination, but the kids were cold. So I compromised and we grabbed a taxi to St Patrick’s Cathedral. My kids tolerate my fascination with cathedrals and graveyards. To them, it’s just another church. But they are more to me. I don’t see them as religious destinations, although clearly, they are. However, places of worship meant so much more to the people who frequented them hundreds of years ago. They were the social and political hub and seeing them from that historical vantage point makes them read differently to me.

St Patrick’s was built in the 12th century, and is the final resting place of the author Jonathon Swift (Gulliver’s Travels), and, interestingly, his “best friend”, Esther Johnson. One of the best things about travel is that it inspires me to learn, so I immediately started looking into this relationship. Not much is known, only that he was her tutor (when she was 16 and he was 30), and that when she died he was so bereft he couldn’t even look out the window towards her funeral. He insisted that she be buried at the cathedral, and he beside her when his time came. It is rumored they were secretly married, but we will never know.

See? Old churches can be cool!

Next, we visited Dublin Castle. This more than 1,000-year-old building was the home base for English rule, until the 1922 revolution, when it was handed over to Irish rebellion leader Michael Collins. While we did not get to see the tower or dungeons, as we didn’t book a tour, we did visit the State Apartments. The State Apartments are a museum, filled with art and historic memorabilia. They are still used today for political events, such as the swearing-in of the Irish president, entertaining visiting heads of state, and hosting state dinners.

I do think the kids found it interesting as well, although they could’ve been happy just because they were in a warm place. If asked, I bet they would say their favorite part of that visit was seeing a fox outside on the grounds. This shocked and excited us, but evidently, wild foxes are common in London and Dublin. Who knew?

Our final planned destination that afternoon was Silver Works where we were taking a ring-making class. I learned about this opportunity in one of my Facebook groups on travel in Ireland. We, along with a couple from Dublin on a date night, were given small strips of silver which we then turned into rings. It really was a great activity, and we all walked away with a fun souvenir. As I’ve mentioned before, I have started purchasing jewelry on my travels as a souvenir, and this was extra special because it was part of a shared experience with my kids.

When we returned to the hotel, the girl had to make a call, so we changed for dinner then Carter and I went out for a walk. It was bittersweet because we knew he was leaving in the morning. I was glad to eke out some one-on-one time.

He and I stopped at Flanagan’s for an appetizer, which should have gone smoothly. However, when they were delivered, they gave us the wrong thing. I grabbed what I thought was a piece of fried brie, only to sink my teeth into a deep-fried mushroom. I gagged and spat it out, while Carter laughed so hard, I think he was crying. I detest mushrooms! The restaurant apologized and brought us the cheese (which was awesome). I ate a lot of it to purge my brain of the mushroom incident.

We met back up with Frankie and headed to dinner at Kathmandu Kitchen. We originally had planned to get Indian food while in London, but the place we wanted to try there had an hour-long wait, so we tried this one instead. Actually a Nepalese and Indian food combo restaurant, the food was warm and savory and happy. Visit if you are in Dublin!

Sadly, Carter left us early the next morning. I am glad we got part of the trip with him but we were all beyond frustrated with the Navy for screwing up his paperwork, necessitating a return to Sicily. I will be quite happy when he is finally a civilian again! We sleepily bade him farewell before the sun came up and tried to fall back asleep. But my brain remembered my big adventure coming up, and no more sleep for me!

Today was to be an adventure of a whole other kind: I was getting a rental car and would be driving for the rest of our time in Ireland. Gulp. I was apprehensive but sure that I could do it. Good news: they upgraded the rental to a beautiful Volvo SUV. Bad news: they upgraded our rental to a beautiful Volvo SUV. I had asked for a small car, as that was everyone’s advice for navigating the narrow roads. Turns out the “upgrade” is one they foist on tourists because the bigger cars just sit on the lot. Ugh. I was immensely grateful for the myriad cameras on the car, which ended up being absolutely vital. FYI: upon the advice of the Irish travel sites I followed, I rented through My Irish Cousin, a rental car agency that contracts with other companies. Our car was actually an Enterprise vehicle but used MIC for all the paperwork. I opted for ALL the coverage, as I didn’t want to worry about scrapes and scratches and wanted roadside assistance if needed (American auto insurance does not often extend to rentals in Ireland).

Our first stop on our way to Galway was the little town of Athlone, home of Sean’s, the oldest bar in Ireland. Dating to 900 AD, this place is a charmer!

When I return to Ireland, I will try to stay a night in Athlone to see Sean’s in its full evening glory. As it was, we enjoyed a cup of tea around the fire and marveled at the pub. Note: like most European countries, there is a zero alcohol tolerance policy for driving, thus the Guinness abstinence at Sean’s! After our drink we briefly explored Athlone. Whenever we travel, Frankie’s highlights are always animal-centric, and running into a Merle French Bulldog named Drogo in a park, who loved running around with us, was a great road trip break!

As we approached Galway, I started to get a bit nervous. I find driving in unfamiliar cities can be a bit daunting, no matter what side of the road you are on. Mind you, I am not afraid of doing it. But I do feel like the tighter and more crowded the space, the more possibilities there are for mistakes. As I entered the parking garage, I encountered the most stressful driving experience of the whole trip. The turns in this garage were ridiculously tight (man I wish I had the smaller car!) But those cameras proved invaluable. I didn’t hit anything, even if it did take me about three attempts per turn, eventually figuring out the correct turning radius by about the 6th try. We had been told that while this garage was closer to our hotel, there was a more navigable one down the road. I decided that when we left this one, we would use that one instead, no matter how long of a walk it was!

We stayed at The Residence Hotel Pluses: great staff, super cute decor, free water, nice beds, clean, comfortable, attached pub, location. Downside: oddly, the location. We were on the streetside, and the live music downstairs definitely made me grateful for earplugs!

Frankie and I guiltily chose Italian food for dinner that night. I say we felt guilty simply because we knew we wouldn’t be eating it if Carter had been with us, as he didn’t come from Sicily to eat pasta in Ireland, lol. Our meal at Venice Ristorante was a trip food highlight for sure.

From there we headed towards a recommended pub for a pint and some trad music. Tig Choili is in Galway’s Latin Quarter, just a few minutes from our hotel.

It was crowded with locals, with a few tourists squeezing in for good measure. They have live music every night, so check it out if you are in town.

On Wednesday, our goal was the Cliffs of Moher. I had planned an early-ish morning start, but my girl just felt so sick I let her sleep an extra couple of hours. While she rested, I took some time to wander the streets of Galway. It was quiet and beautiful. I do love this part of travel!

I enjoyed coffee and a sausage roll at a branch of the British chain Caffe Nero before bringing some hot tea and a chocolate croissant from Bar Italia Ciarlantini back to the hotel for Frankie. Fortified, we returned to the wretched parking garage and headed out.

When planning the trip, I asked the kids what they most wanted to do. Frankie chose castles and ruins, so I did my best to find what I could. On the way to the Cliffs, we took a slight detour to find Tyrone House. Built in 1779, it was not as old as many of the things we marveled at, but beautiful and eerie and worth a visit. Oh yeah: and it is currently inhabited by very friendly donkeys! And another oh yeah: we had to hop fences to get there. No signs that said no trespassing, but it isn’t exactly open to the public. But it is out in the countryside, surrounded by fields and sheep and private homes on their own acreages, so we felt it was worth the risk.

Back in the car, the girl napped while I admired the gorgeous countryside. I know this was the dead of winter, but it is scary to think the place gets prettier in the warm months! This was an adventurous day for me, where I learned how to navigate the narrow roads and share them with tractors, buses, and people who drove waaaay faster than myself!

Upon arriving at the Cliffs of Moher, we suited up, expecting it to be horribly windy and cold as we had been forewarned it would be. It really wasn’t that bad! I don’t know if we had a good day for it, or if everyone else was a little bit wimpy. We walked around and marveled at the scenery, and climbed a beautiful tower. Unfortunately, being outside was not making Frankie feel any better, so we didn’t hike around as much as we had planned.

My goal was to get back to Galway before nightfall. I just didn’t want to drive those narrow roads in the dark! I mean, there were zero streetlights on pretty much any of the roads we traveled, whether they were country lanes or freeways. But we were hungry, and we opted to detour to the town of Doolin, which was highly recommended for its charm, shops, and restaurants. On our way, we chanced upon Doonagore Castle.

Built in the 14th century, The castle was once the site of a mass hanging of more than 170 Spanish sailors whose armada ship crashed on the cliffs below. Now, it is privately owned and closed to the public, but you know us: we clambered over a stone wall and walked on over. We took a few quick pics before someone came and told us to leave, and continued on our way.

We came to where Google told us the bustling town of Doolin was located and found a couple of houses and a closed restaurant. I am not sure how we went wrong, but clearly, I’d put the wrong info into my GPS. Frustrated, I decided we would just go straight back to Galway since darkness was quickly closing in. Availing ourselves of the hotel receptionist’s suggestion, we parked at the harbor parking garage, which was spacious and easy to navigate. (However, when it came time to leave the next day, I screwed up by not prepaying and causing a minor traffic jam for those also trying to leave. Ugh).

For dinner, I tried to find a place that served lobster, as we had heard it was good in Ireland (mind you, this was for the girl. I don’t do seafood, but she had been feeling so yucky I wanted to make it happen for her). Google sent us to McSwiggan’s back in Galway, but: no lobster on the menu. So, she settled for calamari with her steak, which she liked very much. I got a very weird burger. It didn’t taste bad, just odd. I kept trying it over and over, trying to put my finger on it. It was just so dense! I think it was overground and overworked maybe? I don’t know. I have found that steaks in Europe are rarely up to my Midwestern standards (except in Florence, Italy), but burgers can be good. This just wasn’t to my taste. The beet tartine appetizer was amazing, though!

On Thursday we left Galway and headed southeast to Cork. But first, we had a very special stop to make.

Ashford Castle has belonged to many families over the years, including the Guinnesses. The medieval castle has been continuously inhabited and improved and has been a hotel since the 1930s. It is featured in many movies and TV shows and has had guests ranging from music stars to heads of state and everyone in between. It is gorgeous, and I want to go back and stay there. But for this visit, we were due first at the Ireland School of Falconry!

We met up with our guide, who showed us around the immaculate and spacious grounds. These birds have a stunning setup! We were outfitted with our gloves and received some basic instructions before we met our hawks, Mya and Atlas. With the birds on our arms, we wandered out to the grounds, and let them fly about, raising our arms when we wanted them to return. Watching them fly from tree to tree, hunting and soaring, was something I will never forget. Absolutely a highlight of the trip.

Afterwards, we were due for tea inside the castle. Sandwiches, pastries, tea, and champagne were a perfect cap off. Then we wandered the grounds, and explored the castle, dreaming of a return trip, before it was, sadly, time to get back on the road.

There was no way to avoid darkness this time, but as most of the drive was on multi-lane highways it wasn’t too bad. We were pointed towards Cork, the one destination I was unsure of. The travel boards kind of dismissed it, but it worked out well for us. We stayed at the River Lee Hotel. This was the most modern hotel of the trip, which was fine. It was large clean and well-located. The staff was great, and the parking was easy (yeah!). The only downside was the room temp. It was just cold! The staff felt terrible and brought us a space heater, which definitely helped. 

I had already made reservations at a well-rated restaurant that was supposed to have lobster (they didn’t, lol). Cork has a foodie reputation, and I would agree with that based on our experience at The Cornstore. Beautifully decorated, the food was lovely and the drinks delicious. A terrific cap to a fantastic day.

Anyone who knows me thinks it’s probably ironic that I wanted to kiss the Blarney Stone, but I did. Legend has it that all who kiss it will be blessed with the gift of gab. I wonder: for the chatty Cathies that kiss it, does it have a silencing effect? Guess we will have to wait and see!

Blarney Castle was a short drive from Cork, which is one of the reasons I picked the town. The grounds were almost deserted, which is such a great perk about traveling in the shoulder season! It was clear from all the signage that this place must be packed in the warmer months. But the grounds were magical in the misty damp, and there was no way we could have enjoyed them if we weren’t basically all alone. And since you spent about 47 seconds at the actual stone, I would have hated waiting in line for it!

That evening we went pub hopping and found one of our favorite ones in Ireland, Sin E was a snug little jewel box filled with handsome men in wool sweaters, tremendous music memorabilia, and even better trad music. It also had an adorable pit bull just hanging out, waiting for pets, which we happily doled out!

On Saturday we were to say goodbye to Ireland and head back to London. On the way back to the airport, I wanted to stop at various sites, but Frankie still wasn’t feeling her best. So, we just did one stop, and it was stunning. The Rock of Cashel has been around since pre-Christian days and was reportedly where St Patrick himself baptized kings and banished Satan (busy dude). In the interest of time, we didn’t book a tour, and if I go back, I will do so because I know I missed out on so much. But just walking around this amazing site was tremendous. One of the things I found fascinating was that the graves there are both ancient and recent, as it is the oldest working graveyard in Ireland.

After our quick stroll, we had brunch at a lovely local restaurant, the Ladyswell. A shared full Irish breakfast was a great last meal on the Emerald Isle!