Blog Archives
Last Days in London
Part 3 of 3
Upon arriving in London for the last part of our trip, we took a cab to our hotel. I just couldn’t deal with my sick girlie trying to wrestle all her baggage via the underground! I selected a different hotel for this second London leg, just to change it up a bit. We stayed at the Rubens at the Palace, which was just stunning. This was definitely the poshest place we would unpack! The staff was beyond kind and helpful, and it’s always nice to have wine and snacks waiting in your room upon arrival! Negative: the complicated light switches, lol! I had planned to go out, but we decided to simply dine in the lovely New York Bar in the hotel. We were pretty wiped out, so this was a perfect easy end to our long day.
Sunday morning we had a planned tour of Buckingham Palace. Our hotel was right across the street from the palace, so we left a few minutes early to grab a light breakfast of sausage rolls, smoothies, and coffee to nourish ourselves.
We were still a few minutes early, so we walked around to the front of the palace. It was almost the changing of the guard, so it was pretty crowded. I think I will try to witness that on my next London trip.
But on this trip, we were exploring the inside of the palace, not the outside. I wish I could share pictures from the tour, but they aren’t allowed. Suffice it to say, The Crown, Victoria, and other shows do a darn good job recreating the interior shots for their shows. I can’t believe how close we were allowed to get to the thrones, the priceless art, and more! Pro tip: even if you don’t do the palace, visit the gift shop. It was truly great and had a wide variety of souvenirs. Better than any other shop we saw!
Afterward, we wandered through St James Park, where we had to chuckle at all the tourists fascinated with squirrels. Frankie impressed a group of Italians by showing them how to feed them from her hand. We decided it made more sense to let them think she was a squirrel whisperer than let them know how many squirrels steal from our birdfeeders daily in the summer!
Continuing our stroll, we passed Westminster, Big Ben, and the London Eye on the way to our next destination.
Frankie had been jonesing for nachos for quite a while. After an unsuccessful search for them in Cork, we were thrilled to run into a place that had good chips and guacamole, if not true nachos. We were in the Borough Market, a great outdoor/indoor food market.
We had already tried samples of bread, bought berries and cucumbers which we ate on the spot, and I bought a great bottle of hot sauce (who knew?). But having a Bloody Maria, chips, and guac were just what we needed, and El Pastor Stoney was the place to get them! Didn’t hurt that we got to hang with two dogs, George and George (that’s a long story) while we noshed.
Back to the hotel we went to change for the night. On a previous trip to London, the girl had been to a speakeasy and wanted to return, so we tracked it down and headed over there that night. Unfortunately, Cahoots had grown in popularity (and was no longer a secret), so we could not get in without a reservation. The doorman suggested another bar nearby, Disrepute. This lounge is usually open to members only, but they had room for us at the 1960s-inspired bar, so we settled in for a craft cocktail. Then we decided to backtrack to a blues bar we had passed earlier. What a find! We hung out at Ain’t Nothin’ But the Blues Bar for the next couple of hours, enjoying the music and the people-watching. This was a great find, and I would totally suggest you check it out. The bartender told us to come back for open mic night the next night, which we considered strongly so Frankie could get herself up on the stage, but it wasn’t meant to be.
Monday was our last day, and I had packed it pretty full. First off was a visit to the Tower of London. I had visited it previously but thought the kids would find it cool so I happily returned (and I will go back again). I booked a tour with Get Your Guide, and the guide showed us around outside and told us info about the Tower, Tower Bridge, and other surrounding areas before handing us off to a Beefeater. Did you know that the Beefeaters and their families live at the Tower? I did not, but I do now. As we wandered around with him, folks kept trying to join our group. He politely but firmly told them that this was a private tour, which I appreciated, as we had paid for his time! Most folks were apologetic about it, although one woman got riled up and complained. She was full of consternation as she asked, “Well how would you ever find a tour?” I muttered under my breath about this new invention called the Internet. A few in our group chuckled at that as she huffed off.
After our tour, we were free to wander on our own around the tower grounds. Another perk for being off-season: there was NO LINE to get in to see the crown jewels. When you look at the Disney World-like metal line stanchions outside the exhibit, indicating that there were usually a lot of people waiting to get in, you realize how nice that was! The crown jewels are truly worth the wait, though. So much sparkly! I did really wish Carter had been with us, and we kept sending him pics of the old weapons and things at the Tower. He would have loved it.
We spent about three hours total there, and I would have spent more but the girl was done, and we had another tour to get to: a pub tour! Booked with Liquid History Tours, our guide shepherded us around London for a few hours, pointing out sights, telling tales, and introducing us to four different pubs. Highlights from the tour included seeing haunted jail cells from the now-defunct Old Bailey courthouse and jail, running into the Blackfriars, a pub that Rich and I had actually visited during our London trip many years before, and sitting in Charles Dickens’ favorite seat at his fave watering hole, the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. Two thumbs up for the adventure!
That evening, we had tickets to see the show Alan Cumming is Not Acting His Age which I understand will soon be coming to the States. We rushed back to the hotel to tidy up a bit then rushed back out again. The show was at the lovely Theatre Royal Drury Lane and for me, the high point of the evening was something I had booked as an add-on. For an added fee, we were to receive access to a private bar, replete with snacks and cocktails. I booked it frankly because I knew we wouldn’t have time to eat, and I honestly loved the idea of having a bar with a shorter line. Well, it was more than that. We were met by a “red coat,” a lovely young woman who escorted us to the lounge. Or so I thought. It was actually a private room with a fireplace, snacks, and a bottle of champagne, just for us!
Afterward, we realized that returning to the blues bar from the night before would be a very bad idea, as we were leaving for the airport at 5am and still had to pack. So, we headed back and corralled our belongings for one last time. Or, at least, until the next time!
This trip was clearly not perfect, but we managed. It would have been so much better if Carter could have stayed with us, and if Frankie hadn’t gotten sick. But you have to work with what you have. We shall just have to plan another adventure! And is it awful that, as much as I love spending time with my kids, following their schedules made me wistful for my solo travels. I have no other plans right now for any trips, but my brain is working on it!
Additional thoughts for travelers:
— use the underground! Just like the New York subway, it is super easy, especially when you tap your credit card instead of messing with an Oyster card.
— A lot of places don’t take American Express so make sure you bring a Visa
— London bathrooms almost always had lovely, scented hand lotion in them. This was true of all the bars, shops, restaurants and more
— In both Ireland and England you rarely saw paper towels, only hand dryers. Hence, the bathrooms were always clean!
Enjoying Another Slice
My body was chatting at me after my trek the previous day. Evidently, my 56-year-old, out-of-shape legs did not enjoy the Tip to Tip adventure. No rest for the weary, however: I had a bike to ride!
I started out my day with breakfast at Zucker’s by Bryant Park. My first NYC bagel of the trip (new trip cuisine: Jewish!), but nowhere near my last! Went with one of my standards: an everything with scallions cream cheese. Yum.
Sufficiently fueled, I headed uptown for a Central Park bike tour with Unlimited Biking. I was not the only solo cyclist in my group, but I WAS the only solo traveler. People volunteered throughout the tour to make sure I had pictures of myself, which was just grand. I honestly think I am in more pictures on this trip than in the ones I take with other people!
The tour was fun and quick, and while it had a few tough hills, it was a great break for my tender toes. Again, I would heartily recommend this tour, and this company!
Afterward, I had originally planned to grab a hot dog in the park, but I wasn’t feeling it, so I took off on a wander. I had an afternoon to kill, before some very fun evening plans. I decided to indulge my reality TV inner fan and headed towards the garment district. On the way, I tried my third culture/cuisine of the trip, with stupendous tacos at Los Tacos No. 1, the Times Square location.
Worth the wait!
As an avid Project Runway fan, I have always wanted to go to Mood Fabrics. It was even more amazing than I anticipated!
I am by no means a seamstress, but wandering through the aisles on all the levels of this place made me want to pick up a needle (well, almost). I had decided in advance that this was where I would get my souvenir for the trip: I wanted to pick out fabric for curtains for my office. Since I figured I would be taking them, I needed something lightweight, almost but not quite sheer, that didn’t fray too much on the neds (I will basically be hanging it with clip-on curtain rings, and don’t intend to put any trim or edging on). I settled on a gorgeous, deep red lining material. I haven’t gotten it up yet, but when I do, it will be an everyday, practical reminder of this expedition!
Next up: Kleinfeld! If you’ve ever watched Say Yes to the Dress, you know why I had to visit. I didn’t have an appointment, and they were filming, so I couldn’t go into the salon, but I could peek in, and go downstairs to the accessories and alterations area. Just like Mood, the place was bigger and more breathtaking than I had imagined from the TV shows!
I headed back to my hotel to get ready for a very fun night out. Dinner reservations were at Il Buco Alimentari, a darling little Italian joint.
I was seated near the kitchen at a fun bar where I was served by the amazing Justus. I mentioned in my previous post how eating at the bar is a great call for solo travelers. If you are uneasy about eating alone, the bar is perfect, because you instantly have a dinner companion: the bartender. Justus was so fun and chatty! He told me about how Martha Stewart had eaten in the spot next to me just days prior, and about Taylor Swift’s dinner there a few days before that. Evidently, she arrived with Zore Kravitz and Laura Dern, and a few bodyguards. If you go on the website, you’ll see a picture of a cozy banquette-type table. just down a flight of stairs. That’s where they sat. Taylor told Justus to just order one of everything on the menu. He confessed that, as an avid fangirl, he felt awful suggesting that was too much food. She just let him decide. Then when Laura Dern tried to pick up the tab, the bodyguard shook his head: Taylor had already taken care of it.
My Swiftie friends back home kinda freaked out when I told them this story.
After dinner, I was off to the theater! Everyone knows NYC is the home of Broadway, so seeing a couple of shows was definitely on my docket. First up was the MUST SEE off-Broadway production of Titanique. This hilarious show is a loose retelling of the movie Titanic but from Celine Dion’s over-the-top view point. When I told local New Yorkers that I was going they all lit up and said it was the best thing in town (and seemed frankly surprised that a middle-aged Minnesota mom would be so hip as to go, which I found amusing). I laughed so hard I wept — and the singing was phenomenal. Go. Immediately.
After the show, I headed to Minetta Tavern. The place was jam-packed, which was fine because frankly, I wasn’t really hungry. But this was a place on my list for great burgers and cocktails, so I waited. While I did, I chatted with locals and had a ball. The place seemed chic, vibrant, and old-school classic all at the same time. And the food (and drinks!) did not disappoint.
Saturday was a rainy day, but that was fine. I had planned this to be a museum day, so I was going to be inside anyway. I quickly learned that New Yorkers absolutely throng to museums on rainy days (and especially weekends!).
I was glad I had made my reservations in advance.
I started the day at the Museum of Modern Art, where I had never been before – and was absolutely wowed. My before hours tour with an art expert was done through Get Your Guide tours. Our little group got to wander the vacant museum before the crowds descended, which allowed access to some of the most amazing pieces of art in the world.
After the tour ended, I explored the rest of the museum before it was time to get lunch. I found a great Thai restaurant, Thai @ Lex, thus extending my “new cuisine a day” goal. It was only about 4 tables, which was just lovely on a drizzly gray day.
The scrumptious curried beef and noodles didn’t hurt either!
Fortified, I headed to my next tour at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I have been to the Met before but thought it might be fun to have a guide this time. Once again, I booked a Get Your Guide tour: the best of the Met. I had a little glitch, as I arrived on time for my tour, but did not anticipate the very long line to get inside. I asked if there was a door for pre-paid tours, and was directed to another, far shorter line But that line was for museum members. I frantically called the tour company, hoping to reach someone on a Saturday. Thankfully the person at Get Your Guide was incredibly kind. She wasn’t able to contact the guide but assured me they would wait. I managed to get inside and found a group patiently waiting — and not just for me. They even said I had time to go check my very wet raincoat and umbrella. The guide was interesting, patient, and thoughtful. The Met is enormous, and there is just no way to see it all. But having a guide really helped. I 100% recommend using this company!
When I was planning this trip, I had planned to go upscale barhopping after the museums, catching the sunset and city views while enjoying fancy drinks and apps. But the rain had put a damper on that (pun intended). Instead, when I got off the subway near my hotel, I ran a few errands. First stop: a liquor store for a bottle of red. Second: a neighborhood bodega for a pint of very chocolatey ice cream. Back at the hotel, I asked who they recommended for pizza, and wasn’t surprised when they suggested Joe’s (which was on my list!). My pie arrived quickly, and I hustled it upstairs. After a quick wardrobe change into pjs, I enjoyed my fabulous girl dinner with a side of Netflix. Happy mama!
Stay tuned for the last post on my trip!
A little Ado About Everything 