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Final (Apple) Core Memories
Sunday found me ready to carbo-load.
My first scheduled activity was a tour with NYC Bagel Tours. My little group (just me and a family of 3) hit up three bagel shops, tasting a variety of the ubiquitous doughy delights and a smorgasbord of tasty schmears while learning about the history of the bagel. I typically gravitate towards the savory side of the bagel world, and tours like this one expose you to choices you might not ordinarily make. On this adventure, we visited the Bagel Pub, Liberty Bagels (home of the rainbow bagel!), and the Bagel Market.
I absolutely recommend this tour!
Bagel Pub: Cinnamon raisin with pumpkin cream cheese 
Bagel Pub: Egg with cucumber dill 
Bagel Pub: everything pumpernickel with chipotle bacon 
Bagel Pub art gallery! 
Jalapeno with avocado herb and rainbow with birthday cake 
Liberty Bagels: rainbow with birthday cake 
So many bagels 
Bagel Market: Salt with green olive and pimento
That afternoon I was scheduled for another trek, this time to cross the Brooklyn Bridge. I had never walked it before, so this was another NYC bucket list item. I picked a tour guide that sounded irreverent and fun, and that didn’t take themselves seriously. I’m not sharing the company, because, well, I wasn’t ultimately impressed. They had good info, and I did learn things. I found it particularly interesting that the bridge’s building was secretly overseen by a woman, the wife of the ailing bridge engineer. If you watch The Gilded Age, you will see her character this season! But I just didn’t dig this guide’s approach (they actually seemed like they couldn’t wait to get the tour over with, and wanted to talk about themselves more than the bridge). I don’t want to disparage someone who might be terrific on another day and with another crowd, so I won’t name names. A suggestion for other guides: when you have a solo traveler, offer to take their pictures, and suggest great vantage spots to do so (my bike tour guide was great at this).
It was a rainy day, which was great because it cut the crowds down. Unfortunately, not all the views were the greatest due to the clouds, but that’s okay. I enjoyed the walk!
When I was done, I wandered around the area right under the bridge. I would like to do more of that on a future trip, as it was a very cool area. I cozied up to The Lobby Bar inside the Time Out Market under the bridge, which I really enjoyed. The bartender was chatty and companionable, and I enjoyed the respite from the drizzly weather. Then it was back outside for a few more pics!
That evening I decided to try a new cuisine — Cuban! I dined at Guantanamera, a highly recommended place with a live salsa band and dancing. A little chorizo with plantains, a mojito (maybe 2!), and a gorgeous hunk of saucy pork, and I was content!
My Monday tour was another long-time wish list destination. The Tenement Museum gives a glimpse into the lives of immigrants, migrants, and refugees who have lived in New York. My biggest problem with this place was deciding which tour to take! This museum is not one where you wander aimlessly through exhibits; rather, you take a tour focussing on a family’s experience. I opted for the 1865 German immigrant tour, which told the story of John and Caroline Schneider. The knowledgeable guide really brought the family’s experience to life and left me eager to try other tours on a future visit.
The Tenement Museum was a few blocks from Chinatown, so I headed that way to explore further and grab some lunch. I ended up at the Mott Street eatery food court and stopped by the highly praised Sanmiwago booth for some Taiwanese dumplings.
I am a sucker for dumplings, and will almost always choose them when they are in front of me! It was a perfectly sized lunch to tide me over until my big dinner that evening.
I headed downtown to visit some more historic landmarks. First up was Federal Hall, where George Washington took the oath of office.
This was not the most interesting place I visited, but, to be fair, it was undergoing some renovations. But it was free, and around the corner from a place I really was excited about, so it was certainly not a mistake to stop in.
Trinity Church is a working house of worship but is also a fabulous place to visit if you are fascinated by graveyards and the stories they tell. Founded more than 300 years ago, it has gained a lot of recent attention, as it is the final resting place of Alexander Hamilton, his wife Eliza, and her sister Angelica. It is a beautiful place, and there is a great, free, downloadable walking tour that makes many of the stories come alive, so to speak.
I enjoyed the visit, although I did have a little emotional breakdown. This cemetery reminded me so much of the one Rich and I visited in Boston, that spring when we started to realize something was seriously wrong. I tried to contain my tears, but I just couldn’t. Thankfully people were respectful and just let me have my space.
After I finished, I went back to my hotel to get cleaned up for my last planned big night out. Dinner was at Quality Bistro, a stunning jewel box of a restaurant. I luxuriated on a blue banquette seat, sipped champagne, and watched the night progress. I overate and loved every minute of it.
One of the reasons I chose the restaurant was its proximity to the Hudson Theatre, where I had tickets to the newly opened Merrily We Roll Along (starring Daniel Radcliffe, Jonathon Groff, and Lindsey Mendez). It was an exciting night, and the crowd was buzzing.
Two thumbs up on the performance!
I walked all the way back to my hotel, enjoying the lights, sounds, and activities of the city. So many people worry about walking around New York at night, especially as a lone female. I never once felt unsafe in the city. It was glorious!
On my last day, I tried to squeeze in as much as I could (and as long as my energy held up!). I started at the Morgan Library This stunning place started as the private library for Pierpont Morgan, the incredibly successful financier that helped shape New York. After his death, his librarian Belle da Costa Greene (read the book, The Personal Librarian. You will not be disappointed!), helped transform it into a public institution we all can now enjoy. If you like books, history, or art, do not miss this place.
The Morgan Library houses a vast collection of manuscripts, books, documents, and art. I actually found a new artist there with whom I am now obsessed: Ferdinand Hodler. This Swiss artist was prolific in the 19th century, and the Morgan had an exhibit that showcased many drawings. I was drawn to his paintings of women, which showed both their beauty and strength equally. I am on the hunt for a print of one of them in particular, the “Study for Joyful Woman.” I am trying to track down a copy of it for my home!
The exhibition also showed some pieces from a series he did on the illness and death of his mistress. These haunting works really brought back my months of watching Rich fade away. I was very moved. You can see a video about the exhibit here.
After the Morgan, I went to the High Line, another NYC institution that I had never previously visited. Thanks to the drizzly weather, it wasn’t very crowded, which made it a lot easier to enjoy all the amazing artwork and the spectacular views of the city and its architecture. I got off at the Chelsea Market food hall to grab a quick lunch. I did not anticipate that it would be so vast, and varied. It was a visual feast as well as a tempting culinary one. I grabbed a spot at the very pretty bar at Corkbuzz, where I enjoyed a wine flight with some olives and jambon croquettes. Delish!
Thus fortified, I headed back up to the Highline and went in the opposite direction. One of the things I did on this trip that probably wouldn’t have worked had I been with companions: I only looked to one side of the high line on my way down, and then the other on the way back. I know that probably sounds peculiar, but it allowed me to focus better on everything around me, without missing something on one side by crisis crossing to the other.
My NYC time was quickly coming to an end. I debated going out for dinner, but I just couldn’t be bothered. Instead, I just pressed the up button in the hotel elevator and went to the rooftop.
Top of the Strand comes up on many lists of top rooftop view bars in New York, and no wonder. I had been meaning to check it out for my whole visit, and I am so glad I finally did. The Empire State Building was RIGHT THERE! I soaked it all in while I enjoyed my final cocktail and charcuterie board before calling it a night.
I had planned to take the subway and Airtrain back to the airport for my return flight, but I was just wiped. So I asked the desk to hire a car for me instead, which was such a great end to a trip that was truly all about me.
I can’t wait to do another solo adventure! I know not everyone likes the idea of traveling without companions. The bike tour through Central Park was really the first time I talked with other visitors about it. I found the varied reactions fascinating. Some were baffled: why would I go alone? Wasn’t I lonely? Afraid? Some were delighted and even envious. A few people seemed to get a longing gleam in their eyes, especially when I said I got to do what I wanted when I wanted, and for however long I wanted. If something was boring me, I would move on. If I wanted a detour, I took it. If I wanted to hang out longer, what was stopping me? Throughout the trip, I reveled in those moments and was grateful I didn’t need to consult anyone else’s wishes.
Don’t get me wrong: I want to travel with other people. In fact, the next three trips I have planned are not solo. And I would like to go back to New York, either with friends or by myself. But I like exploring on my own. It helps me realize how interesting I really am, and how much I don’t need to be in a couple. I think that realization will make me a better partner if I ever take that step again.
But for now, I am working on a 2024 travel mood board. I am ready to do a solo international trip, but I haven’t figured out where yet. I also want to do a road trip this summer. I remember fondly that trip decades ago driving cross country with just a tape deck to keep me company.
This trip, I have so many new memories. Please enjoy this last slideshow, featuring some of the stunning street art and architecture of NYC.
Taking My Own Bite
I recently took myself to New York. I have been to NYC before, but not for a full week, and never alone.
This was to be another “widow trip.” What does that mean? Well, for me, a widow trip is something purely solo, and designed to push as well as entertain me. My first widow trip was within days of Rich’s death when I packed up the dog and went to a cabin for a few days. The second was to Maui in January. This trip would “up the ante,” in terms of challenges, and I was determined. As the old song goes, if I can make it there…well…you know!
When I arrived, I headed to the AirTrain and then to the subway. This was where I made one of the few “oopses” of my trip. The AirTrain was free, but the subway was not. In my extensive research, I had correctly learned the right routes and also had happily discovered that you did not have to buy physical subway tickets. Instead, you could just tap and pay with your credit card. This is a fricking genius evolution, one which means less fumbling with wallets and money and a huge time saver and stress mitigator. After 10 charges in a week, the rest of the week would be free. Great deal, super fast and easy — except it didn’t work for me on my first trip. Rather than ask why, I decided to try figuring it out independently. Big mistake. I went to buy a single pass, and couldn’t find an option, so I just bought a week pass. It wasn’t until I arrived at my subway stop that I learned I had bought a pass for the AirTrain, which I would ultimately never use again. Ugh. Advice: ask for help BEFORE you make the money-wasting mistake.
My next error was one I knew I was making. I packed a big heavy suitcase. What can I say: I am high maintenance. I tried to leave the subway to go to my hotel, but could not find the darn elevator and I did NOT want to carry it up the stairs. I went around and around in circles and finally humbled myself to ask for help — again.
But I learned a great thing during my conversations with folks, one that would bear out for the duration of my vacation: New Yorkers were so kind, friendly, and helpful. I never once, on the entire trip, met anyone sour or grumpy! They are justifiably proud of their city, and want everyone to enjoy it to the fullest.
Once I managed to finally get street-level, I broke into a huge grin. I love the hustle and bustle of a city! It was a bright sunny day, and the city was my apple to bite. I pointed my feet in the right direction and quickly arrived at my hotel, the Marriott Vacation Club Pulse. I chose this hotel because I could swap it for the week at my timeshare. It was a great location, mere blocks from Bryant Park, Grand Central, Times Square, and more. I was pleasantly surprised that my room was ready when I arrived, some 4 hours before check-in, as long as I was okay with a low-level room, which was just fine. In my opinion, there are certain places where it makes sense to go for the view, and crowded cities are rarely that, as your view is usually of another building. I unpacked a bit, and headed out!
I made my way towards Grand Central terminal for a tour with Take Walks. Unfortunately, this was where I made an additional “oops”: I was actually an hour early. Note to self: when you book in one time zone, check the time for the other! So when I booked a 2 p.m. tour, that was for 2 p.m. central, not eastern. So to kill time, I wandered around. I happened to be in NY during the United Nations General Assembly, I know locals were hassled by the added congestion, but personally, I loved seeing all the SUVs with international flags, the people in traditional garb all over the place, and all the myriad languages spoken around the city were an added layer of music to my ears.
When I headed back to GC Terminal, I happened upon a beautiful flower exhibit, courtesy of Crayola.
Then it was time to meet my tour group. We donned nifty headsets, which I wish all tour guides would use. It made it easy to hear the guide, no matter where you were in the pack! The tour was a great peek behind the curtain. I learned a lot about the Vanderbilts, and about why the building looks the way it does. I heartily recommend this tour! Note to self: on your next NYC venture, hit The Campbell, a beautiful bar tucked away in a corner. It used to be a wealthy businessman’s office.
Back at the hotel, I changed for dinner. I was meeting my good friend Christi for dinner at Wolfgang’s Steakhouse. What a fun place — the service was just terrific (and I think they knew we were faking about it being my birthday, lol).
The food was good, but I think it would have been better if I had ordered my usual, a ribeye steak. I got the filet mignon instead, simply because of its size. Filets are always so tender, but I like the flavor in a big fatty piece of meat!
Christi and her husband Jim were fascinated with my plans for the next day: I was walking Manhattan, tip to tip! I saw this suggestion on TikTok. Once I watched that video, I plugged the plan into my Wanderlog itinerary and started supplementing it with restaurants and sights I could experience along the way. After all my fine-tuning, the trip was anticipated almost 7 hrs and 31 miles!
My plan was to be out of the hotel by 830 but ended up being 45 minutes late, so I knew I might have to trim things off if I wanted to be done before dark. I changed my original plan and got off the subway earlier than planned, and got off in Inwood. One of my goals for this vacation was to eat a different cuisine or culture every day. Today was Ethiopian, at Buuni Coffee. Sadly, they are no longer serving the full breakfasts I wanted, but I had great Hummingbird loaf and their delicious java, then headed off.
The best thing about this trek was the opportunity to go off the tourist trail and see neighborhoods I never had before. I loved seeing just day-to-day life. This morning was my first experience seeing all the great dog walkers around Manhattan, where one individual wrangles a posse of pooches. As one who can’t really get her GreatPyraHuskaDoodle to walk in a straight line, I was humbled.
One impetus for doing this trip was to finally visit the Met Cloisters. I have always wanted to, but it is so far north of anything else that it just never worked out. But this time it did. What a gem! It is literally like someone moved Medieval Europe into Manhattan. Fort Tyron Park up there was gorgeous too, Views of New Jersey.
From there I headed towards Harlem. Along the way, I saw the Morris-Jumel Mansion. I couldn’t go inside, as it wasn’t open yet, but I was intrigued. Built in 1765, it is the oldest surviving residence in Manhattan, and was at one point George Washington’s headquarters!
Next up was lunch at Red Rooster, owned by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson. On this trip, I embraced the “eat at the bar” thing, which is a great option when traveling and dining solo.
The bartender is an instant companion, which often makes for some lively and informative conversation. More on that later.
As I walked past the historic Apollo Theater after lunch, I made my first “delete” decision of the walk. I had planned to stop at the Hungarian Pastry Shop, but a belly full of fried chicken and mac and cheese and a time crunch made me reconsider. I’ll add it to the list of places to try next time!
Trudging onward, I skirted the edge of Central Park, but chose not to enter the grounds, as that was a stop for another day. At about this point in the day, my body started to complain. For about an hour I internally discussed the need for chemical reinforcements and started keeping my eyes peeled for a drugstore of some sort. I passed Columbus Circle, Times Square, and Herald Square, before finally finding a CVS — but they were sold out of ibuprofen. Fortunately one of the ubiquitous New York newsstands had what I needed. Grabbed some Advil, bought a highly-caffeinated iced tea at a cute shop, made a quick trip to a dispensary, and Mama was set.
I passed Union Square and found Washington Square Park, which was one of my highlights. It is such a vibrant area, full of college students, artists, musicians, tourists, and locals all enjoying the sunshine. From there I found Sugar Wood dessert shop. Your mama does NOT make waffles like this, lol.
BTW I have decided that next trip I may stay in Greenwich Village. I loved the culture there, and would have enjoyed exploring the shops and restaurants more. In fact, one of my favorite meals was in the Village, which I will fill you in on in another post.
Heading on farther south, I passed the famous Ghostbusters headquarters (aka Hook and Ladder Company 8 in Tribeca). I enjoyed watching the families chatting with the firefighters and headed downtown.
As the buildings got taller and newer, the city’s tenor changed. This was where people worked, not played. A new building had just opened nearby, one which is bound to be a highlight in a city full of architectural marvels. The Perelman Performing Arts Center is an exquisite cube of glass overlooking the 9/11 Memorials. When lit up at night, it feels like a block of light pulled from the dark empty square hole across the street. It is beautiful.
Having visited it in the past, I skipped the emotionally charged 9/11 Memorial this time (but if you have never been, go. Wear waterproof mascara and pack Kleenex). I strolled through historic Zuccotti Park, then saw the lines of folks trying to get pics with the Charging Bull statue. I didn’t get in line, but did ask myself, would I have chosen the line at the front of the bull, or the back? You rub decidedly different parts for luck… Then I headed to Battery Park where I gazed out at Lady Liberty, just as the sun was sinking toward the horizon.
I did it! After 46,693 steps, covering 19.40 miles and the equivalent of 49 flights of stairs climbed, I had walked Tip to Tip Manhattan! If I did it again (I totally would), I would definitely have left earlier in the day and I would try to visit new places. I think the number one joy of travel is trying new things, seeing new places, and talking with new people!
I celebrated my victory with a cocktail at the Dead Rabbit, NYC’s oldest bar. The good news about the timing of my walk was arriving before sunset to see the Statue. The bad news? Happy hour crowds in the financial district. Polished off my beverage, and headed back to the hotel, where I ordered a flatbread, and a glass of wine, and was off to dreamland, ready for the next day!
BTW: if you are interested, my TikTok from that day was filmed on the walk, with posts every few stops or so!
A little Ado About Everything 