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Turn to the left…Turn to the right…FASHION!
It was bound to happen at some point: we slept through our alarms Saturday morning, our third day in Italy. Frantically, I texted our tour guide and let her know we would be late, and we did our best to get suitably pretty as fast as we could.
Looks mattered for this one, as I had booked a Milan Couture Fashion Tour through Context Travel. Much like the food tours, there were many fashion tour options, with Milan being the fashion capital. But none of the ones I found on the typical sites resonated with me. During my research, I stumbled upon this article, which led me to Context Travel and our lovely guide, Emilija Kelcher.
Emilija was waiting for us outside the Emporio Armani cafe when we breathlessly ran up. As our heart rates settled, she told us about her background, coming to Italy as a young woman from Croatia to be a model, and her later years working in the industry in other ways, and filled us in on what to expect. The tour was just the three of us (and the price was very reasonable — not much more than on the bigger group tours). We would spend the next few hours visiting various shops and ateliers in the fashion district known as the Quadrilatero, learning about the history of designers, and the industry, and would stop along the way if something caught our eyes. Oh — and so much did!
Our first stop was inside Armani, where we discussed his career and how he has changed fashion as we know it. from inventing the color greige, to, in his words “soften(ing) the image of men and harden(ing) the image of women” by creating less structured suits for men and power suits for women. We drooled over some of his fashions in the store.
Designers of course have long branched out from clothing. I was drawn to his love of flowers — in Milan, you can order from Armani Fiori and the designs are exquisite. The minimalist lines of the cafe decor were an interesting juxtaposition to the Christmas tree outside — and the view from the windows is a special treat all its own!
Besides the wonderful clothing, Emilija shared some of her favorite buildings and architectural hidden gems. These pictures are from the intersection of Via Santo Spirito and Via Gesu.
These two streets are connected by the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum and the private home of the people who own it. We did not visit the museum, but it is now on my short list of must-sees for a return visit. It is a “house museum,” showcasing the collection amassed in the late 1900s by a pair of brothers. The mansion, filled with items from the 15th and 16th centuries, is considered one of the finest examples of what a Lombardy mansion would have looked like at that time.
She had us stop in at the Four Seasons Hotel Milano. Besides stunning, as all Four Seasons properties tend to be, this one is remarkable for its history. The hotel is housed in what used to be a convent dating back to the 15th century. During recent renovations, frescoes were uncovered and preserved around the hotel, and they are definitely worth a look if you are in the area. The holiday decor was stunning as well.
Back on the fashion trail, Frankie and I discovered a store that Emiliji hadn’t visited before, and we were pleased with ourselves when she seemed impressed by it as well, especially when she saw the quality and the price point. Atelier Eme is a dreamy place, filled with bridal wear and special occasion dresses and all sorts of accessories, shoes, and the like. With the obligatory proffered glass of bubbles in hand, we explored while Emilija talked shop with the manager.
The prices were actually kind of amazing for the level of work done and the originality of the wedding dresses. The girl and I decided we would seriously consider coming back here someday when wedding dress shopping was on a to-do list!
Another well-heeled highlight was a stop at Dolce&Gabbana. These pictures show the items I would have chosen if offered: that fantabulous copper feathery loungewear set, and can you guess which accessory?
Next up was Gucci!
If you want more info on that poker chip set, click here. My birthday is in April, FYI…
Looking for fashion trends? These pictures at Prada really summed up a few things I saw often: Mary Janes with straps, bucket hats, purses with doodads, and lots of feminine details like flowers. This dress has straps made out of crystal daisies. Oh and this store, Pinko, made me salivate. It has inspired me to renovate my closet!
When the tour ended, we backtracked to some places we had to rush past. A favorite spot was the Piazza Quadrilatero—Ex Seminario Arcivescovile di Milano, an old seminary turned into a divine shopping area. We availed ourselves of the beautiful grounds for a quick photo shoot before visiting the stores.
One of our favorite shops there was Antonia, but the reason I really wanted to return to that shopping area was to visit a jewelry shop called SO-LE STUDIO. This really unique place features jewelry made out of leather that looks like metal. The founder is the granddaughter of the famous shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo, and she liked the idea of transforming leftover bits of leather and brass. This is where I picked up my souvenir for the trip!
That evening was our last in Milan before heading to Sicily in the morning. So we took our photo shoot back to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, and did what everyone else was doing: posed by the Christmas tree!
Afterward, we decided to find the bar we had seen from the roof of the Duomo on our first day and found ourselves at Duomo Terrace 21. After a cocktail and enjoying the view, we realized that there was another part of the building with a DJ, so we headed there. We soon found ourselves dancing with new friends from Turkey, having a ball listening to music by Andryx and sadly heading back to the hotel earlier than we wanted. At 1am, the party was just starting, but we had a plane to catch the next day!
Today’s totals: walked 12,646 steps or 4.95 miles and climbed 6 flights of stairs
Sunday’s flight wasn’t until the afternoon, so we had time to kill after packing. A European city is the best place for that, so a-wandering we went!
All roads from our hotel lead through the Galleria, so first we popped into Swarovski Crystals, which had always been closed when we’d been there before. The store took a jewel-box approach to displaying its wares. I was reminded of honeycomb, with glistening treasures hidden in the golden nooks and crannies.
We wandered past some holiday Lego displays…
…and ended up at, well, McDonald’s. We honestly just needed a bathroom break, but I couldn’t help marveling at the differences between a Milanese Mickey D’s and one in the States. Clean and classy, with multiple levels, everyone waiting patiently at different stations, depending on what they ordered at the automated kiosk. Of course, if you were simply ordering pastries and coffee, that was available at the espresso bar at the front. Yes: the full-service, high-quality espresso bar. Sigh…
We were headed towards the Castello Sforzesco, which we had seen lit up and looked up on our first night. This time we would be able to walk around the grounds, but would not have time to purchase a ticket and explore inside. Another item added to the “next time” list!
The castle was built in the 14th century and has been a symbol of Milanese glory and tyranny ever since. It has been the home of powerful people from many nations, as well as a fort and barracks for centuries. In the 1800s the city decided to renovate it, and in 1905 the castle and grounds opened to the public. The grounds house more than ten museums, including priceless works by Leonardo DaVinci. The park grounds cover more than 60 acres!
After a quick but delicious lunch at Bravo Bistro it was time to say ciao to the wonderful friends at The Street. But not for long: after Sicily, we would return to Milan for one last night!
When we landed in Sicily, my son Carter and his wife Lisa were waiting for us at the airport in Catania, where we secured our rental car and headed inland towards Mineo, Lisa’s hometown. Carter took the wheel for the one-hour drive for a few reasons. One, he gets car sick if he’s not driving, and the roads we were taking were not going to be exactly straight or flat. The second reason? Those roads. Steep, windy, and dark, the countryside was gorgeous in the daylight, but Carter didn’t really want me tackling it all for the first time in the dark. Fair — especially when he and Lisa argued over which map directions to take, in my small SUV rental (I wanted a smaller car, but when we realized that we would need a vehicle for 4 people plus luggage, my plans had to change). So we ended up on dirt roads in orange groves in the middle of the night, hoping neither sheep nor suspicious armed farmers crossed our path.
When we finally reached Mineo, high atop a hillside, we parked in a municipal lot and dragged our luggage up the ancient cobbled streets. There was no driving or parking within the city, that’s for sure. We made so much noise that one woman actually came out to investigate, fearful that a chunk of one of the ancient buildings had fallen off!
In the morning, we started to explore Mineo. The current village was founded in 459 BC, but there is archeological evidence of even older settlements. Like the rest of Sicily, the town’s fortunes, culture, and population bear the imprint of all the civilizations who have invaded and ruled over the centuries, including the Greeks, Romans, and Arabs. Many of the buildings in Mineo were built after the devastating Sicilian earthquake of 1693, but there are more modern ones as well, like the place we rented.
We stayed in an Airbnb rented out by the charming couple Marco and Maria, who, of course, knew Lisa’s parents (Mineo is a pretty small place). The 3 bedroom home had two living rooms and a rooftop deck with phenomenal views.
It was frankly way bigger than we needed, but there honestly weren’t a ton of options, the price for 5 days was less than a 2-night hotel stay in Milan, and the unit was literally around the corner from Lisa’s parents’ home, so it was perfect!
In the morning I was eager to explore Mineo a bit. We started with espresso and pastries, then meandered.
Sicilians embrace the Nativity scene like no one else. I learned this when we visited for the first time in 2021, and this visit cemented that belief. Mineo took it to the next level, as you will see in another post. But here are some miniature examples of their zeal:
Soon it was time for what I was most excited about: lunch with Lisa’s parents! The whole point of this trip was meeting Maria and Giuseppe. I had been worrying for months about what to wear, what gifts to bring, and if they would like me. They had welcomed my son into their family, and that meant everything. I know it had to be hard for them. I am sure they had to be leery of this dimpled Navy kid charming his way into their daughter’s life!
They were lovely.
Lisa played translator, as their English wasn’t stellar, and my Italian was abysmal (and don’t even ask about my Sicilian!). But we managed, and we laughed and smiled, bonded by our mutual love for our children. Oh — and over Maria’s amazing food!
Today’s total: walked 18,417 steps or 6.97 miles and climbed 19 flights of stairs
Final (Apple) Core Memories
Sunday found me ready to carbo-load.
My first scheduled activity was a tour with NYC Bagel Tours. My little group (just me and a family of 3) hit up three bagel shops, tasting a variety of the ubiquitous doughy delights and a smorgasbord of tasty schmears while learning about the history of the bagel. I typically gravitate towards the savory side of the bagel world, and tours like this one expose you to choices you might not ordinarily make. On this adventure, we visited the Bagel Pub, Liberty Bagels (home of the rainbow bagel!), and the Bagel Market.
I absolutely recommend this tour!
Bagel Pub: Cinnamon raisin with pumpkin cream cheese 
Bagel Pub: Egg with cucumber dill 
Bagel Pub: everything pumpernickel with chipotle bacon 
Bagel Pub art gallery! 
Jalapeno with avocado herb and rainbow with birthday cake 
Liberty Bagels: rainbow with birthday cake 
So many bagels 
Bagel Market: Salt with green olive and pimento
That afternoon I was scheduled for another trek, this time to cross the Brooklyn Bridge. I had never walked it before, so this was another NYC bucket list item. I picked a tour guide that sounded irreverent and fun, and that didn’t take themselves seriously. I’m not sharing the company, because, well, I wasn’t ultimately impressed. They had good info, and I did learn things. I found it particularly interesting that the bridge’s building was secretly overseen by a woman, the wife of the ailing bridge engineer. If you watch The Gilded Age, you will see her character this season! But I just didn’t dig this guide’s approach (they actually seemed like they couldn’t wait to get the tour over with, and wanted to talk about themselves more than the bridge). I don’t want to disparage someone who might be terrific on another day and with another crowd, so I won’t name names. A suggestion for other guides: when you have a solo traveler, offer to take their pictures, and suggest great vantage spots to do so (my bike tour guide was great at this).
It was a rainy day, which was great because it cut the crowds down. Unfortunately, not all the views were the greatest due to the clouds, but that’s okay. I enjoyed the walk!
When I was done, I wandered around the area right under the bridge. I would like to do more of that on a future trip, as it was a very cool area. I cozied up to The Lobby Bar inside the Time Out Market under the bridge, which I really enjoyed. The bartender was chatty and companionable, and I enjoyed the respite from the drizzly weather. Then it was back outside for a few more pics!
That evening I decided to try a new cuisine — Cuban! I dined at Guantanamera, a highly recommended place with a live salsa band and dancing. A little chorizo with plantains, a mojito (maybe 2!), and a gorgeous hunk of saucy pork, and I was content!
My Monday tour was another long-time wish list destination. The Tenement Museum gives a glimpse into the lives of immigrants, migrants, and refugees who have lived in New York. My biggest problem with this place was deciding which tour to take! This museum is not one where you wander aimlessly through exhibits; rather, you take a tour focussing on a family’s experience. I opted for the 1865 German immigrant tour, which told the story of John and Caroline Schneider. The knowledgeable guide really brought the family’s experience to life and left me eager to try other tours on a future visit.
The Tenement Museum was a few blocks from Chinatown, so I headed that way to explore further and grab some lunch. I ended up at the Mott Street eatery food court and stopped by the highly praised Sanmiwago booth for some Taiwanese dumplings.
I am a sucker for dumplings, and will almost always choose them when they are in front of me! It was a perfectly sized lunch to tide me over until my big dinner that evening.
I headed downtown to visit some more historic landmarks. First up was Federal Hall, where George Washington took the oath of office.
This was not the most interesting place I visited, but, to be fair, it was undergoing some renovations. But it was free, and around the corner from a place I really was excited about, so it was certainly not a mistake to stop in.
Trinity Church is a working house of worship but is also a fabulous place to visit if you are fascinated by graveyards and the stories they tell. Founded more than 300 years ago, it has gained a lot of recent attention, as it is the final resting place of Alexander Hamilton, his wife Eliza, and her sister Angelica. It is a beautiful place, and there is a great, free, downloadable walking tour that makes many of the stories come alive, so to speak.
I enjoyed the visit, although I did have a little emotional breakdown. This cemetery reminded me so much of the one Rich and I visited in Boston, that spring when we started to realize something was seriously wrong. I tried to contain my tears, but I just couldn’t. Thankfully people were respectful and just let me have my space.
After I finished, I went back to my hotel to get cleaned up for my last planned big night out. Dinner was at Quality Bistro, a stunning jewel box of a restaurant. I luxuriated on a blue banquette seat, sipped champagne, and watched the night progress. I overate and loved every minute of it.
One of the reasons I chose the restaurant was its proximity to the Hudson Theatre, where I had tickets to the newly opened Merrily We Roll Along (starring Daniel Radcliffe, Jonathon Groff, and Lindsey Mendez). It was an exciting night, and the crowd was buzzing.
Two thumbs up on the performance!
I walked all the way back to my hotel, enjoying the lights, sounds, and activities of the city. So many people worry about walking around New York at night, especially as a lone female. I never once felt unsafe in the city. It was glorious!
On my last day, I tried to squeeze in as much as I could (and as long as my energy held up!). I started at the Morgan Library This stunning place started as the private library for Pierpont Morgan, the incredibly successful financier that helped shape New York. After his death, his librarian Belle da Costa Greene (read the book, The Personal Librarian. You will not be disappointed!), helped transform it into a public institution we all can now enjoy. If you like books, history, or art, do not miss this place.
The Morgan Library houses a vast collection of manuscripts, books, documents, and art. I actually found a new artist there with whom I am now obsessed: Ferdinand Hodler. This Swiss artist was prolific in the 19th century, and the Morgan had an exhibit that showcased many drawings. I was drawn to his paintings of women, which showed both their beauty and strength equally. I am on the hunt for a print of one of them in particular, the “Study for Joyful Woman.” I am trying to track down a copy of it for my home!
The exhibition also showed some pieces from a series he did on the illness and death of his mistress. These haunting works really brought back my months of watching Rich fade away. I was very moved. You can see a video about the exhibit here.
After the Morgan, I went to the High Line, another NYC institution that I had never previously visited. Thanks to the drizzly weather, it wasn’t very crowded, which made it a lot easier to enjoy all the amazing artwork and the spectacular views of the city and its architecture. I got off at the Chelsea Market food hall to grab a quick lunch. I did not anticipate that it would be so vast, and varied. It was a visual feast as well as a tempting culinary one. I grabbed a spot at the very pretty bar at Corkbuzz, where I enjoyed a wine flight with some olives and jambon croquettes. Delish!
Thus fortified, I headed back up to the Highline and went in the opposite direction. One of the things I did on this trip that probably wouldn’t have worked had I been with companions: I only looked to one side of the high line on my way down, and then the other on the way back. I know that probably sounds peculiar, but it allowed me to focus better on everything around me, without missing something on one side by crisis crossing to the other.
My NYC time was quickly coming to an end. I debated going out for dinner, but I just couldn’t be bothered. Instead, I just pressed the up button in the hotel elevator and went to the rooftop.
Top of the Strand comes up on many lists of top rooftop view bars in New York, and no wonder. I had been meaning to check it out for my whole visit, and I am so glad I finally did. The Empire State Building was RIGHT THERE! I soaked it all in while I enjoyed my final cocktail and charcuterie board before calling it a night.
I had planned to take the subway and Airtrain back to the airport for my return flight, but I was just wiped. So I asked the desk to hire a car for me instead, which was such a great end to a trip that was truly all about me.
I can’t wait to do another solo adventure! I know not everyone likes the idea of traveling without companions. The bike tour through Central Park was really the first time I talked with other visitors about it. I found the varied reactions fascinating. Some were baffled: why would I go alone? Wasn’t I lonely? Afraid? Some were delighted and even envious. A few people seemed to get a longing gleam in their eyes, especially when I said I got to do what I wanted when I wanted, and for however long I wanted. If something was boring me, I would move on. If I wanted a detour, I took it. If I wanted to hang out longer, what was stopping me? Throughout the trip, I reveled in those moments and was grateful I didn’t need to consult anyone else’s wishes.
Don’t get me wrong: I want to travel with other people. In fact, the next three trips I have planned are not solo. And I would like to go back to New York, either with friends or by myself. But I like exploring on my own. It helps me realize how interesting I really am, and how much I don’t need to be in a couple. I think that realization will make me a better partner if I ever take that step again.
But for now, I am working on a 2024 travel mood board. I am ready to do a solo international trip, but I haven’t figured out where yet. I also want to do a road trip this summer. I remember fondly that trip decades ago driving cross country with just a tape deck to keep me company.
This trip, I have so many new memories. Please enjoy this last slideshow, featuring some of the stunning street art and architecture of NYC.
Ain’t no Mountain High Enough, Ain’t no Water Blue Enough
I’m a Minnesotan by choice, but I was raised a California girl. I don’t miss much about the Golden State, besides the people I left behind, as there’s not much there I can’t find here. Except for one thing: mountains.
I recently flew back west to enjoy a girls’ weekend with some high school classmates. One of them has a stunning house in Truckee, so we headed up there for some sun, fun, wine and lip syncing! Not much I’m gonna say about all that (what happens in Tahoe, stays in Tahoe), but I do want to share some of the gorgeous scenery. If you’ve never been to Lake Tahoe, you really should put it on your bucket list.
Enjoy!
The view from the backyard at Heidi’s house doesn’t suck
The next day we went boating — thanks Chip for being our Captain, and Shabi, the dog, for being the bestest mascot!
Lake Tahoe’s water is famously stunning!
We boated by the Thunderbird Lodge, which I’d ever heard fo before. So beautiful, and evidently lots of history.
The next day we hiked around before lunch and driving back to the Bay Area. The other girls were after exercise — I just wanted to play tourist and soak up a few last moments. It had been at least 12 years since i had last been in the mountains, and I have no idea when I will be luck y enough to go back!
Going Dutch
HWSNBN has done a lot of European travel for work this past year. While not always great for either of us, we have decided to take full advantage of all those frequent flyer miles, and my flexible retirement schedule. He recently mentioned he needed to go to Belgium for a trip, and would I like to tag along ad meet him in Amsterdam ? So I checked my schedule for the least difficult weekend to bail on my responsibilities, and off we went!
I had been to Amsterdam several times, but only in the airport (seems all flights from Minneapolis go through there). We had bandied about the idea of using Amsterdam as a departure for another location, as he didn’t think we could find enough to do there. Silly man. He still underestimates my epic planning skills! I knew we would never get it all done in the long weekend (Thursday-Sunday) we were there. I was right (shocking, I know).
He arrived in Amsterdam on Wednesday, and had meetings through Thursday night, which meant I’d be on my own until he could escape from work. He apologized, but I knew I’d be fine. Pretty sure I could travel anywhere solo and find ways to entertain myself!
I arrived midday Thursday, and had arranged a one one one tour for myself through an AMAZING company called With Locals (https://www.withlocals.com/). You should check them out (they are all over the world): you pick your own guide, based on little bios on the website. Into fashion and shopping? Pick this guide! A foodie? This one’s for you! I chose mine based on my love of history and architecture. Ente was fantastic. We spent three hours wandering, discussing how the city evolved with the political and economic changes of the times. Every time we turned a corner (and there were many — old cities built around canals have lots of corners), he pointed out something new about a building or a location, pulling out old maps and drawings to show context. Some folks might’ve been bored; I was fascinated.
Sometimes you gotta look up to find local color
Afterwards I moseyed back towards the Museumplain, or museum district, where our charming hotel was. We were staying at the Hotel Vondel (https://www.hotelvondel.com/en). Holiday lights and shop window decorations always delight me. Whether whimsical or charming or just plain head-shaking, I think they are often a glimpse into a city’s personality.
HWSNBN being still in a dinner meeting, I wandered the misty streets, looking for a cozy brown bar to have a beer and dinner. A brown bar or cafe is an old place with lots of wood and smoke tinted walls — no, they don’t smell gross and dirty. They just feel old and welcoming! A quick Trip Advisor app search (smart phones are saviors, lemme tell ya) led me to Gollem’s Proeflokkal (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g188590-d2405892-Reviews-Gollem_s_Proeflokaal-Amsterdam_North_Holland_Province.html), where I cozied up to a beer and bitteballen, a traditional Dutch snack of deep fried dough and ground meat.
Perfect for enjoying the happy sounds of a neighborhood bar, while watching the world pass by. HWSNBN finished his meeting and met me, and we enjoyed more food and drink as we planned our attack on the next few days!
A little Ado About Everything 